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Lawn Planting Instructions
- Measure the area to be planted, length x width. Example: 50 feet times 20 feet = 1000 square feet
- For new lawn construction, till the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. If you have heavy clay soils, apply a soil amendment such as gypsum, lime, peat moss, or compost at the recommend package rates. Soil should be loose and clod free when properly prepared. (this step is not necessary if you lawn is already at a level as you would like it. Rototilling will promote new weed growth – if you do choose to rototill, you will need to level the ground, water the soil before planting for a week or two and then spray out any weeds.)
- Test the soil with a simple pH soil kit to check if you soil is acid or alkaline. If acid (a pH of 6 or less) apply a fast acting dolomite lime at the rate of 50 pounds per 1000 square feet. If alkaline (a pH of 7 or higher) apply a granular gypsum at the rate of 50 lbs per 1,000 square feet.
- Level the seed bed to eliminate high or low spots. Roll to firm the soil.
- Apply seed at the recommended seeding rate. We recommend you broadcast ½ of the seed walking North to South and broadcast the other ½ of the seed walking East to West. This gives you a nice even spread. You may use a starter fertilizer as per directions on the starter fertilizer package. Be careful not to over fertilize as this can kill the new seedlings when they sprout. Coated or treated seed does not need starter fertilizer (companion zoysia, laprima bermuda grass, buffalo grass).
- Cover the seed with peat moss, top soil, straw (clean), at ¼ inch thick or a seed covering per package directions. Roll area to press the seed into the soil.
- Water gently with an oscillating type of sprinkler. KEEP SEED MOIST UNTIL GRASS BEGINS TO GROW. Then, decrease water frequency but increase the length of each watering. This helps ensure a deep rooted, vigorous lawn.
- Do not mow until your lawn is at the recommended height (see chart below). For most grasses this is about 3 – 6 weeks from time of planting. Be gentle!! These new plants are very tender – avoid sharp turns with your lawn mower.
- After mowing twice, fertilize with a quality lawn food (see chart below). Do not apply weed and feed fertilizers for at least 10 weeks.
OVERSEEDING YOUR LAWN
The best way to keep your lawn healthy and vigorous is to OVERSEED it every year. Follow these simple instructions.
- Mow lawn at 1 to 1 ½ inches – remove clippings.
- Rake hard enough to loosen the soil and break apart the thatch. Remove debris.
- Fertilize with a good starter fertilizer or lawn fertilizer (do not use weed and feed fertilizer)
- Apply evenly over the entire lawn at the recommend rate.
- Water – keep soil moist until the new seed germinates. In approximately 5 weeks you will have a thicker, rejuvenated lawn.
When and Why to Renovate? If your lawn is more than ten years old or more than 50% weeds and wild grasses, it is time to start over. Follow these easy steps to a beautiful new lawn:
- Apply a herbicide such as, Round-up® and wait one to two weeks for the lawn to die and turn brown.
- Mow the dead grass as low to the ground as possible, remove the debris.
- Rent a power rake and remove the remaining debris.
- Go to step #3 in Seed a new lawn and follow through to step 10.
BARE SPOT PATCHING
NOTE: For best results, overseed 3 to 4 feet around the bare spot. This will help “blend” the newly seeded spot with the remainder of your lawn. Bare spots in the lawn can be caused by a number of things: dog spots, dry spots, weed removal, moss removal, etc. For best results, proceed as follows:
- Rake spot to loosen soil and remove dead grass.
- Fertilize the spot to be repaired with a good starter fertilizer.
- Seed the bare spot and cover with ¼” of peat moss or compost.
- Keep area moist until seed has germinated.