- Turf Grass Seed Bluegrass, Bentgrass, Ryegrass, Fescues...
- Forage Seed Bromes, Clovers, Fescue, Wheatgrass, Legumes
- Grains Wheat Grain, Rye Grain
- Cover Crop Seed Buckwheat, Clover, Peas, Ryegrain
- Wildflower Seed Mixtures, Singles, Annual, Perennial
NEW LAWN PLANTINGS
- Measure the area to be planted to determine how much seed you are going to need. Example: Length x Width = Total Square Feet (50 feet long x’s 20 feet wide = 1000 square feet.
- For new lawn planting or lawn rejuvenation, till the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. If you have heavy clay soils, apply a soil amendment such as gypsum, lime, peat moss, or compost at the recommend package rates. Soil should be loose and clod free when properly prepared. This step is not necessary if your lawn is already at a level (pH, compaction, fertility) as you would like it. Tilling will promote new weed growth – if you do choose to till, you will need to level the ground, water the soil before planting for a week or two and then spray out any weeds before you plant your grass seed.
- Test the soil with a simple pH soil kit to check if you soil is acid or alkaline. If acid (a pH of 6 or less) apply a fast acting dolomite lime at the rate of 50 pounds per 1000 square feet. If alkaline (a pH of 7 or higher) apply a granular gypsum at the rate of 50 lbs per 1,000 square feet.
- Level the seed bed to eliminate high or low spots. Roll to firm the soil.
- Apply seed at the recommended seeding rate. We recommend you broadcast or drop spread ½ of the seed walking North to South and broadcast or drop spread the other ½ of the seed walking East to West. This gives you a nice even spread. You may use a starter fertilizer as per directions on the starter fertilizer package. Be careful not to over fertilize as this can kill the new seedlings when they sprout. Coated or treated seed does not need starter fertilizer (companion zoysia, laprima bermuda grass, buffalo grass, centipede).
- Cover the seed with peat moss, top soil, straw (clean), at ¼ inch thick or a seed covering per package directions. Roll area to press the seed into the soil.
- Water gently with an oscillating type of sprinkler. KEEP SEED MOIST UNTIL GRASS BEGINS TO GROW. Then, decrease water frequency but increase the length of each watering. This helps ensure a deep rooted, vigorous lawn.
- Do not mow until your lawn is at the recommended height (see chart below). For most grasses this is about 3 – 6 weeks from time of planting. Be gentle!! These new plants are very tender – avoid sharp turns with your lawn mower.
- After mowing twice, fertilize with a quality lawn food (see chart below). Do not apply weed and feed fertilizers for at least 10 weeks.
OVERSEEDING YOUR LAWN
The best way to keep your lawn healthy and vigorous is to over seed it every year or two.
Follow these simple instructions:
- Mow lawn at 1 to 1 ½ inches – remove clippings.
- Rake hard (steel rake) enough to loosen the soil and break apart the thatch. Remove debris. You may want to rent a dethatcher from your local rental store to get up all the dead grass and the rake firmly to loosen the top soil.
- Fertilize with a good starter fertilizer or lawn fertilizer (do not use weed and feed fertilizer)
- Apply seed evenly over the entire lawn at the recommend rate. Rake the lawn once again to ensure the seed works its way down to the soil. If it sits on top of any grass, it will germinate and then die.
- Water – keep soil moist until the new seed germinates. Decrease watering frequency, but increase duration (instead of watering twice a day for ½ hour, water once or twice a week for one hour). In approximately 5 weeks you will have a thicker, rejuvenated lawn.
When and Why to Renovate?
If your lawn is more than ten years old or more than 50% weeds and wild grasses, it is time to start over.
Follow these easy steps to a beautiful new lawn:
- Apply a herbicide such as, Round-up® and wait one to two weeks for the lawn to die and turn brown.
- Mow the dead grass as low to the ground as possible, remove the debris.
- Rent a power rake or take steel rake and remove the remaining debris.
- Go to step #3 of “New Lawn Instruction” and follow steps that apply.
- If soil is very poor, you may need to use step #2 of “New Lawn Instructions”.
BARE SPOT PATCHING
NOTE: For best results, over seed 3 to 4 feet around the bare spot. This will help “blend” the newly seeded spot with the remainder of your lawn.
Bare spots in the lawn can be caused by a number of things: dog spots, dry spots, weed removal, moss removal, etc.
For best results, proceed as follows:
- Rake spot to loosen soil and remove dead grass.
- Fertilize the spot to be repaired with a good starter fertilizer.
- Seed the bare spot and cover with ¼” of peat moss or compost.
- Keep area moist until seed has germinated.
SEEDING RATES PER 1,000 SQ FEET, GERM TIME, MOWING HEIGHTS –
FOR FIRST MOWING, ADD 1 TO 1 1/2 INCHES ON TO MOWING HEIGHT
|TYPE OF GRASS||SEEDING RATE||DAYS TO FIRST MOWING||MOWING HEIGHT|
|Bahia Grass||5 – 10 LBS||21 – 30||3 – 4″|
|Bent Grass – Creeping||1 – 2 LBS||21 – 30||1/8 – 1/2″|
|Bent Grass – Colonial||2 – 3 LBS||21 – 30||1 1/2 – 2″|
|Bermuda Grass – Turf||3 – 4 LBS||14 – 21||1/2″ – 1″|
|Bermuda Grass – Greens||2 – 3 LBS||21 – 30||3/8″ – 3/4″|
|Blue Grass – Turf||2 – 5 LBS||28 – 35||2 1/2 – 3″|
|Blue Grass – Greens||2 – 3 LBS||28 – 35||1/4 – 1/2″|
|Buffalo Grass||2 – 3 LBS||30 – 45||2 – 4″|
|Carpet Grass||4 – 5 LBS||21 – 30||1 1/2 – 2 1/2″|
|Centipede||1/2 – 1 LB||45 – 60+||1 – 2″|
|Fescue – Tall||7 – 10 LBS||21 – 30||2 1/2 – 3″|
|Fescue – Fine||4 – 5 LBS||21 – 30||2 – 2 1/2″|
|Rye Grass||8 – 10 LBS||21 – 30||2 2 1/2″|
|Zoysia Grass||1 – 2 LBS||45 – 60+||1 1/2 – 2″|
|RECOMMENDED FERTILIZERS – WATER 1″ AFTER FERTILIZING|
|TYPE OF GRASS||
ACTUAL NITROGEN PER 1,000 SQUARE FEET –
|GOOD FERTILIZER RATIO|
|Bahia Grass||1 LB – Late Spring||1-2-2|
|Bent Grass – Creeping||1/3 LB – Monthly During Growing Season||22-3-22|
|Bent Grass – Colonial||1 LB – Late Winter, Mid Spring, Early Fall||3-1-2|
|Bermuda Grass – Turf||1.5 LBS – Mid Spring, Mid Summer, Early Fall||3-1-2|
|Bermuda Grass – Greens||1 – 2 LBS – As Needed||1-1-1|
|Blue Grass – Turf||1.5 LBS – Mid Spring, Early Fall
1 LB – Late Winter
|Blue Grass – Greens||1 – 2 LBS – As Needed||1-1-1|
|Buffalo Grass||1 LB – Late Spring||NA|
|Carpet Grass||1 -2 LBS – Mid Summer||1-1-1|
|Centipede||1 LB – Mid Spring, Mid Summer||1-0-1|
|Fescue – Tall||1 LB – Late Winter, Mid Spring, Early Fall||3-1-2|
|Fescue – Fine||1 LB – Late Winter, Mid Spring, Early Fall||3-1-2|
|Rye Grass||1 LB – Late Winter, Mid Spring, Early Fall||3-1-2|
|Zoysia Grass||1.5 LBS – Mid Spring, Early Fall||1-1-1|
|RECOMMENDED SOIL PLANTING TEMPERTURE|
|TYPE OF GRASS||MINIMUM TIME BEFORE FROST|
|Bahia Grass||65 Degrees||6 Weeks|
|Bent Grass – Creeping||55 Degrees||6 Weeks|
|Bent Grass – Colonial||55 Degrees||6 Weeks|
|Bermuda Grass – Turf||65 Degrees||6 Weeks|
|Bermuda Grass – Greens||65 Degrees||6 Weeks|
|Blue Grass – Turf||55 Degrees||8 Weeks|
|Blue Grass – Greens||55 Degrees||8 Weeks|
|Buffalo Grass||60 Degrees||10 Weeks|
|Carpet Grass||65 Degrees||8 Weeks|
|Centipede||70 Degrees||10 Weeks|
|Fescue – Tall||55 Degrees||6 Weeks|
|Fescue – Fine||55 Degrees||8 Weeks|
|Rye Grass||55 Degrees||5 Weeks|
|Zoysia Grass||70 Degrees||10-14 Weeks|